Datsun Roadster Hood Harnesses 65-67

Datsun Roadster Electrical Information from Rallye Enterprises, Ltd.

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HARNESS INFO; ALL CARS, ALL HARNESSES

Again; the VIN is important as cars were titled by year; which may or may not be the true model year of the car.
Exact Nissan harnesses to match particular vin numbererd cars or years of cars are not always available. Many times you can still have a new harness with some minor adjustments to the harnesses that are still available.

These are all "new" harnesses in that they have not been installed on a car. Some were made recently, some before that, some even in the initial production run. Even resting comfortably on a shelf it is not unusual to see one of the many wrapping tape ends starting to unravel. Sometimes we catch this and add a little bit to the ends, sometimes not. It's also possible to sometimes find a stress crack in one of the plugs, or even a small piece out of the back end of one. I think there might have been some sort of machine that put the wires in the plugs. It won't be anything that effects the functioning of the plug-in. I consider us very lucky to still have some stock of these Nissan harnesses.

65 1500 and 1600, 66 1600, 67 1600, 67.5 1600 and 2000.
Nissan was inconsistent in its placement of the wires for the horn and headlight relays. Some are near the fuse box, some near the temp sender wire and some near the middle of the two extremes. The wire harnesses could have it's connecting wires coming out of the harness in ANY of those places; there is no rhyme or reason to it. For the most typical installations; we find the harnesses to be wrong more than right; like they built the harnesses long after the cars were gone and the detail about location was either gone or not noted when the cars were built. These cars were built to early and are too rare to have been drilled by a jig; they were all hand done for these little things.

Easiest fix is to just redrill the holes to remount the relays. Body shops (the good ones) usually put tiny plugs in the old holes or any holes they find.

ORDERING HOOD HARNESS ONLY:
65 - 67 1600 Owners up to SPL311-03323:
Order part# 240-33, listed on ELEC HARNESS Page; no changes req'd

66 & 67 1600 Owners: SPL311-03323 and higher:
SEE INFO BELOW as Harness is DIFFERENT and knowing how it is different you can then choose to Order part #240-33, listed on ELEC HARNESS Page

When ordering please let us know you have read the info on this page and understand it so we don't delay order to send it to you. Thanks

Harness #240-34 is the correct harness. I doubt we will ever see those again.
You can use Harness #240-33 with some adjustments.

#240-34 had has 3 individual 18-22 gauge wires ending in "bullets" to connect to dash harness, all male Green with White Stripe, White, Red with White Stripe, and Black.

The # 240-33 has the same wires; they plug in as usual.

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DIFFERENCE

The earlier #240-33 had the cigarette lighter get its power from the foglamp and clock circuit. This proved problematic so at car #3324 they gave the cigarette lighter its own circuit which came out of the dash harnress as a blue with a white strip wire that went straight to the fuse box.

If this earlier hood harness is put into a car above #03324 there will be no power to the fusebox. You could probably get by if you wanted to use the cigarette lighteer as just a recharger outlet to do as the earlier cars did; just tap into the clock circuit. I would recommend no matter WHAT car you have that the cigarette lighter get its power from a SEPARATE wire that is not IN the harness. It can be bundled with it but not crammed together IN the wire bundle. Those little $@$@$ can draw a lot of power (heat) and the consequences can be very expensive if the harness overheats.

Anytime you tap ANY circuit for any reason; be sure to give it an inline fuse; say 20 amps. If it blows all of the time; then go 30 but any more than that you'd have to up in wire size. Most of the harness wires are sized for 20.

If you don't need a cigarette lighter than of course you wouldn't need to do ANYTHING to use the #240-33 Hood Harness in place of the #240-34.

NOTE FOR 65-66 1600 Owners UP TO ENGINE R-02212
(Weird Regulator Wiring)
This only applied to very early vin number cars. I've only seen a couple of them over the decades and have no idea where the break is. I know the regulator had an almost completely square plug instead of the common wide rectangle you find on most roadsters. Some early cars also had an adaptor harness from the regulator to the alternator. Usually these old style harnesses had transparent plugs versus the more familiar solid white.

Supposedly the change happened at engine R-2212 which would be anywhere from SPL311-00500 to SPL311-01100. The engines were not put in the car sequentially. However I have seen earlier cars that I don't think were changed but did not have the square alternator plug!

As that small connector adaptor harness has not been available separately since the early 70s; you may need to do some wire shuffling to get everything to work right between the alternator and regulator.

Back to NEW Elec Harness

Back to USED Elec Harness

65 66 67 SPL311 Hood Harness Information from Rallye Enterprises, Ltd.

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	HARNESS INFO; ALL CARS, ALL HARNESSES
	Again; the VIN is important as cars were titled by year; which may or may not be the true model year of the car. Exact Nissan harnesses to match particular vin numbererd cars or years of cars are not always available. Many times you can still have a new harness with some minor adjustments to the harnesses that are still available. These are all "new" harnesses in that they have not been installed on a car. Some were made recently, some before that, some even in the initial production run. Even resting comfortably on a shelf it is not unusual to see one of the many wrapping tape ends starting to unravel. Sometimes we catch this and add a little bit to the ends, sometimes not. It's also possible to sometimes find a stress crack in one of the plugs, or even a small piece out of the back end of one. I think there might have been some sort of machine that put the wires in the plugs. It won't be anything that effects the functioning of the plug-in. I consider us very lucky to still have some stock of these Nissan harnesses. 65 1500 and 1600, 66 1600, 67 1600, 67.5 1600 and 2000. Nissan was inconsistent in its placement of the wires for the horn and headlight relays. Some are near the fuse box, some near the temp sender wire and some near the middle of the two extremes. The wire harnesses could have it's connecting wires coming out of the harness in ANY of those places; there is no rhyme or reason to it. For the most typical installations; we find the harnesses to be wrong more than right; like they built the harnesses long after the cars were gone and the detail about location was either gone or not noted when the cars were built. These cars were built to early and are too rare to have been drilled by a jig; they were all hand done for these little things. Easiest fix is to just redrill the holes to remount the relays. Body shops (the good ones) usually put tiny plugs in the old holes or any holes they find.
	ORDERING HOOD HARNESS ONLY: 65 - 67 1600 Owners up to SPL311-03323: Order part# 240-33, listed on ELEC HARNESS Page; no changes req'd 66 & 67 1600 Owners: SPL311-03323 and higher: SEE INFO BELOW as Harness is DIFFERENT and knowing how it is different you can then choose to Order part #240-33, listed on ELEC HARNESS Page When ordering please let us know you have read the info on this page and understand it so we don't delay order to send it to you. Thanks
	Harness #240-34 is the correct harness. I doubt we will ever see those again. You can use Harness #240-33 with some adjustments. #240-34 had has 3 individual 18-22 gauge wires ending in "bullets" to connect to dash harness, all male Green with White Stripe, White, Red with White Stripe, and Black. The # 240-33 has the same wires; they plug in as usual. *************************************** DIFFERENCE The earlier #240-33 had the cigarette lighter get its power from the foglamp and clock circuit. This proved problematic so at car #3324 they gave the cigarette lighter its own circuit which came out of the dash harnress as a blue with a white strip wire that went straight to the fuse box. If this earlier hood harness is put into a car above #03324 there will be no power to the fusebox. You could probably get by if you wanted to use the cigarette lighteer as just a recharger outlet to do as the earlier cars did; just tap into the clock circuit. I would recommend no matter WHAT car you have that the cigarette lighter get its power from a SEPARATE wire that is not IN the harness. It can be bundled with it but not crammed together IN the wire bundle. Those little $@$@$ can draw a lot of power (heat) and the consequences can be very expensive if the harness overheats. Anytime you tap ANY circuit for any reason; be sure to give it an inline fuse; say 20 amps. If it blows all of the time; then go 30 but any more than that you'd have to up in wire size. Most of the harness wires are sized for 20. If you don't need a cigarette lighter than of course you wouldn't need to do ANYTHING to use the #240-33 Hood Harness in place of the #240-34.
	NOTE FOR 65-66 1600 Owners UP TO ENGINE R-02212 (Weird Regulator Wiring) This only applied to very early vin number cars. I've only seen a couple of them over the decades and have no idea where the break is. I know the regulator had an almost completely square plug instead of the common wide rectangle you find on most roadsters. Some early cars also had an adaptor harness from the regulator to the alternator. Usually these old style harnesses had transparent plugs versus the more familiar solid white. Supposedly the change happened at engine R-2212 which would be anywhere from SPL311-00500 to SPL311-01100. The engines were not put in the car sequentially. However I have seen earlier cars that I don't think were changed but did not have the square alternator plug! As that small connector adaptor harness has not been available separately since the early 70s; you may need to do some wire shuffling to get everything to work right between the alternator and regulator.