Note
1: These are harnesses built by Nissan for the
car. They are designed to work with all of the other
parts that came on your car originally. By
"originally" I am referring to what your car came with
from the factory; not what a previous owner says "has
always been on this car". Successful life of these
harnesses depends on all of the other original parts
being present; attached properly and in good working
order (like grounds). Originally the cars did not come
wth a fuse in the main "hot" circuit other than at the
fuse box. If the ammeter fails; depending on how its
internal parts come apart they can refuse together and
the wiring harness will just smoke until you get one
of the battery terminals off. Although adding an
inline fuse or fusible link is not an end all
solution; it can help.Even better would be resettable
circuit breakers. Adding an alternator over the
original 25-35 amp variety can present serious
problems if it is allowed to send more than the
original current through the system. A defect in the
alternator does not an excess of current which damages
the ammeter; although a failed regulator can cause the
alternator to do so. Keep in mind that if the line to
the ammeter is fused; if something happens to the fuse
(age, corrosion etc) and it fails; typically the
diodes in the alternator will blow. Still cheaper than
a wiring harness repair. I've never sat down with each
of the harness designs and figured out where best to
add protection. Past thinking used to be that the
alternator was causing the problem with the ammeter
since the alternators almost always were found to have
a problem when the ammeter repair was done; but if
NOTHING is wrong and you disconnect the hot wire on
the alternator with a running engine; especially if
the alternator is in full charge mode; the alternator
will toss its cookies (diodes).
Note
2: Dash harness sticks out into hood area a foot
or so, hood harness sticks into dash area a
foot or so. Look close at where your problem is if
you're buying just one of them. Console harness
is a short harness that runs from dash harness to
radio console and to center console between seats.
Chassis harness runs back from dash harness to
the taillights. Starter harness is foot long
harness that connects dash harness to starter motor.
On the very early 1600's there was a separate harness
that ran from the alternator to the regulator. There
are also short harnesses for the reverse lights; for
the fuel tank sender and the early cars had a big
ground strap that ran from a starter motor bolt to the
frame because the negative battery cable was attached
to the frame and not the engine.
Harness
availabilty has been shrinking lately. We will
continue searching for and purchasing these harnesses
for inventory. In some cases we are able to extend
availability by updating an earlier harness or
backdating a later harness so the particular wire
configuration or plug-in matches your harness. Some
harnesses are only available in sets with other
harnesses, we will advise at time of order if this
situation exists.
These
are all "new" harnesses in that they have not been
installed on a car. Some were made last year, some
before that, some even in the initial production run.
Even resting comfortably on a shelf it is not unusal
to see one of the many wrapping tape ends starting to
unravel. Sometimes we catch this and add a little bit
to the ends, sometimes not. It's also possible to
sometimes find a stress crack in one of the plugs, or
even a small piece out of the back end of one. I think
there might have been some sort of machine that put
the wires in the plugs. It won't be anything that
effects the functioning of the plug-in. I consider us
very lucky to still have some stock of these Nissan
harnesses
1969
INFO "TYPE 1" and 'TYPE
2"
There
are two types of 69 dash and underhood harnesses,
which differ by the amount of connectors in the plug
in for the short (12" or so) starter harness which
runs from the starter motor and meets the dash harness
under the master cylinder. (Three or Four) If the
dash,hood,and starter harnesses are changed together,
you can use either type. The change to the 4-prong
plug was made at approximately SRL311-10400 and
SPL311-25500, but check to be sure.
TYPE
1 has the 3-prong
TYPE 2 has the 4-prong
USING
A 67.5-70 1600 HARNESS ON A 67.5-70 2000 and vice
versa
On
the 67.5-70 dash and hood harnesses; the main
difference between the 1600 and 2000 versions is that
the 2000 temp sender comes off the dash harness over
by the fuse box and runs out to the right
(distributor) side of the engine. On 1600s; this wire
goes out from the dash through the engine harness and
comes out on the left (carb) side of the engine. You
can take one harness and run the temp wire around the
front of the engine (taped into harness) and use make
a 1600 or 2000 harness even though you didn't start
with one.
The
70 1600 also has a smog system valve on the intake
manifold that has to be dealt with as well; if your
system is still intact. The 70 1600 will also have
wires going to the clutch pedal to operate this
valve.
68
HARNESSES VS 69-70.
To use a 68 on a 69-70 or vice versa you always need
to change hood, dash and chassis harnesses; and also
use the appropriate turn signal switch, fuse box,
headlight switch, flasher switch, headlight relay and
maybe something else I can't remember at the moment.
The 69-70 chassis harness is also set up differently;
so all four rear lights act together; i.e. BOTH rear
lights on a particular side are turn signals; BOTH on
the same side are also brake lights. Earlier cars just
used one on each side for each purpose. The plug-in
for the chassis harness and backup lights varys as
well.
Wiring
Diagrams are
sometimes available. Mail your car's VIN and $2 or ask
for one when you order and we'll drop one in if
available N/C (the shop manual only shows 2 of the 10
or so different ones) Please email for
availability
Just
Need a Plug? Many
times we can cut one off an old harness for you.
Sometimes used harnesses or sections of used harnesses
are listed on the USED HARNESS page to assist in a
repair.