Datsun SPL310 - SPL311 Cylinder Head from Rallye Enterprises, Ltd.


Datsun 1500-1600 Used Cylinder Head Info

CYLINDER HEADS unless specified otherwise are "just off the engine" and have had nothing done to them. Unless specified otherwise, heads are bare castings, with seats and guides only in whatever condition they are in, and do not include valves, springs, thermostat housing, rocker towers or rockers. The heads may be offered at different prices depending on what parts are included. Used heads would need to be ordered by a mailed in order accompanied by a money order. Please inquire for delivery costs. A US Postal Money order is by far the quickest if you have any kind of time constraint.

HEAD THICKNESS You can cut off about .050" from an uncut head before you need to have the "pocket" in the head, the concave area where the dome of the piston visits; recontoured. If you mill a head past this point, depending on how it is cut the dome of the piston will contact the head. You can also rebuild your engine using flat top pistons to alleviate this situation forever. Having the chamber recontoured is no big deal, but many machine shops routinely ignore this situation.

Another problem with aluminum heads is electrolysis, which simply put is the aluminum dissolving into the water. This situation seems to be aggravated greatly by using straight water instead of 50/50 antifreeze/water. I've been told that water with a high mineral content also increases the likelihood of this being a problem. Any of you with a chemical or engineering background feel free to jump in! I've seen some heads that have been completely eaten through from this process.

When a head has overheated and warped, most machine shops just mill the head gasket surface flat and leave it at that. Many will not check the thickness of the head against what it was originally (3.248"-3.250"). You may end up with the problem described in the first paragraph above. I've also seen lots of heads where the top was never corrected, to allow the valve cover gasket to seal properly. When a head warps the whole head warps. You can tell if you have this problem by laying a straight edge on the top of the head and seeing if it "rocks" when pushed down alternately on the each end of the straightedge. If this is not corrected you may have a leaky valve cover if head is warped a lot. As a result people are tempted to keep tightening on the valve cover nuts. Aluminum doesn't flex much..."SNAP". Once weakened by cracking, a valve cover will never seal again unless it is braced and then heliarced. Those valve cover nuts should be finger wingnuts as if everything else is OK they shouldn't need much more torque on them then fingers could apply. Instead you've got those nice big nuts. "Hey, Ronny the valve cover's leaking, hand me the 3/4 drive impact wrench! The solution is to at least lightly surface the top of the head to take off the offending "peak".

WHAT FITS WHAT? Any 1600 head fits any 1600 engine. There are a few variations though. There is a SAE thread iron head and a SAE aluminum head. Neither has air injection ports for the emission system you may or may not still have on your car. (All 68-70 USA cars came with the system). There is a metric aluminum head without the injection ports and a metric aluminum head with the injection ports.

To use an SAE head on a "metric" engine or vice versa you just need to remember whichever head you have needs the appropriate threads on all the studs and nuts you use. The head gasket, manifold and valve cover gaskets are the same. The heads are set up for either a 2-hole or 3-hole thermostat housing. Each has a plate for the sealing cap that is either 3-hole or in the case of the 2-hole housing actually 4-holes. Some engines came with a extra plate that goes under the housing that has a mount for the alternator and/or an engine lifting hook. You can't switch thermostat housings to a head that isn't drilled for that type.

The older heads use a different valve seal. Check the valve seal info link on the NEW 1600 HEAD PARTS page


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